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Dispossessing the Tonga

I spent the past week tucked away in my hometown, enjoying fresh air, fish and maphumu. I was home to celebrate my ujenith birthday. Thanks to ubiquitous telephony and internet services in this land of achievers, I was in touch with friends in Blantyre, Lilongwe, Koronga, Phodogoma, Ntepele, Mzuzu and Beijing.

 

I even had a voice over internet (VOIP) video chat with my Chinese friend, Ha Hi Ho. He was in a  gym in downtown Beijing, lifting weights, surrounded by Chinese-looking girls, who kept chattering and giggling as Ha and I talked and laughed. Ha did not mince words about American athletes who arrived in China wearing masks as if there is a country in the world without air pollution. Matama basi.

 

It is funny, isn't it,  that people from the so-called developed world don't seem to understand how the body works, reacts and adapts to the environment. I will ask my friend, Mose wa Lero, Mtengo wa Minga, Chitsulo cha Njanji, Bingu Wa Mutharika, to set up a volunteer corps of Malawians to go out and teach Americans a few tricks about how to behave in foreign countries. To call a snake a snake, these people alibe khalidwe (labwino).

 

Ha has since sent me a cellphone that I can hardly use. It has no accompanying software. Nothing. When I emailed him for the software, he told me he did it deliberately to make me learn reading and writing Chinese. Koma umphawi ndi ukapolodi, eeh.

 Believe me. As part of my birthday celebration I travelled the length and breadth of Tongaland. Not much has changed. There are a few things that have changed of course. A few new structures that have been built here and there, of course.  Graveyards have since expanded, eating up farm land.  Young men and women of yester years are now old men and women.

But in general, where there has been no bridge there is still no bridge. Where there was no road there is still no road. Where there was no school there is still no school. Where there was no electricity during the Banda and Muluzi regimes, there is still no electricity. While Malawi boasts having some twenty radio stations, only three can be heard there. Sorry, I will not reveal which these are even if you came with twenty four lawyers. Sizitheka.

Believe me. One of my nephews asked me to go with him to his school. He did not say why but I guessed he wanted a ride. I obliged. We got to Mgodi FP School and met a member of staff who took us to his office.

"Good morning, sir. Welcome," the member of staff said as he waved us to a bench.

"Thanks. This is my former school. I was here thirty years ago. It was a vibrant place," I said.

The member of staff smiled before saying: "Well it is still a vibrant place except for one difference. You had enough teachers."

"And now, how many are you?"

"Three. One of us is in hospital. So we are essentially two."

"How do you then teach eight classes?"

"Well, four classes come in the morning and four in the afternoon," he said, smiling.

"Does your DEO know this issue?"

"You mean the DEM? Well he knows. Parents know. Learners know. Politicians know. The MP knows."

Honestly I had no more words. I just wished the member of staff well and courage. I kept thinking how in the 21st century two teachers can be left to teach eight classes.

We, that is, my nephew and I, left Mgodi FP School, the school that shaped me, propped me and sent me to secondary school, dejected and helpless. That school, like many others in rural areas, is in a state of utter destitution.

I was disappointed but I, being me,  had a fresh idea. I asked my nephew what it would feel if we went to Chinthechi Inn for one cold drink. My nephew likes cold drinks. He likes chambiko and I, vodka on the rocks. You know my taste, nanga tiziti mwabadwa lero?  

I like it because of Alexander Solzhenitsyn, the great Russian writer who died last week aged 89. I read Solzhenitsyn's Matryona's House and Other Stories in secondary school and his other classics in college where I learned how Russians defied the cold by gulping dry vodka. That was way back when school was school. Osati zalerozi when students are asked to choose between literature and language. Ngakhale masumu ati multiple choice.

Instead of going straight to Chinthechi Inn, we drove to Kandi Beach to cavort in the sand and watch tourists riding horses and to drink one. We did not  want to stay long there because the tourists felt somehow uncomfortable and suspicious with our presence. You see, in those hide-out lakeshore lodges or tourist areas, where drinks sell at the cost of a goat, local faces are rare unless they come to sell curios, their selves or ujeni.

I don't trust people who don't trust me. So, after one hard shot of Malawi Vodka, I asked my nephew to finish his drink quickly. Then the barman took courage and asked:

"Don't I know you? I must have seen you or heard your husky voice somewhere."

"Of  course you should…  We are leaving," I said.

"So early? Why?"

"Your drinks are too expensive."

"You can drink on me. Someone will pay," he said, pulled a long glass and squeezed in three long shots of Malawi Vodka.

"Thanks, man. This is great welcome back home. I was actually going to Chinthechi Inn, the land of  the Lake of Stars Music Festival."

"I understand this year the government has directed that the festival will be held in Salima," the barman said.

"And what do you think about it?"

"Well…It's sad. You see, that festival was a Chinthechi Inn festival. It was initiated by management of Chinthechi Inn and not government. Why should it go to Salima?  That festival helped us make some money…Why are they politicising a cultural festival meant for a specific area? Why?"

"You can stop government from implementing the change."

"How?"

"Get a court injunction or threaten to vote for the opposition... You see… Once upon a time Dwangwa was  part of Nkhata Bay. It was taken away and given to Nkhota Kota when a Sugar Estate was about to be established there. In exchange Nkhata Bay got Likoma and Chizumulu, two arid islands, which originally belonged to NKhota Kota. Then Likoma and Chizumulu were declared a district when it became clear the islands were becoming a tourist attraction.

"Also. Once upon a time UNESCO planned to establish a community radio at Nkhata Bay. That radio station is now at Nkhota Kota. Everybody says Mzuzu is in Mzimba but one third of that city, including Moyale Barracks, the State House, MBC, the High Court, Mzuzu Government Secondary School, is in Nkhata Bay..."I stopped to swallow the vodka.

 "These people hate us; they are slowly dispossessing us while we watch," he said as he pulled another glass and squeezed in another three shots for me.

"Thanks, it's actually my birthday today."

"Hey guys… This man has a birthday today. And his doctor recommends vodka on the rocks!" the barman shouted to the tourists who had hitherto sat quietly watching TV in the bar.

Then an avalanche of drinks followed.  I can't remember what time we left for home and who drove the car. Does it matter? 

Comments (17 posted):

Shalala Oliver Sepiso on 05 September, 2008 01:37:15
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Very interesting read! And speaking as a Zambian reader, * am not sure we have such writers for any of our online newspapers. Good job.
Chisita Cha Dochi on 05 September, 2008 02:42:00
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You have forgotten Paper and books Industry which was supposed to be at Chinthechi failled because the governmented wanted it to go to centre or south and the owner constructed it in Kenya.Im missing Maphumu too here in USA.
Likambo on 05 September, 2008 09:18:05
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Where is Nkhata Bay, is it in Mangochi?
Chigumbuli on 05 September, 2008 10:10:25
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Excellent article. Please keep it up Ada Manda.

Half Mtonga in Zambia.
kazolo (cape town) on 05 September, 2008 10:10:42
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Yah man home boy,am also from Chifira near to Kande,* must give you 100% for pointing out this issue.
* think the best idea for us Tonga'* we must boycot to vote,and show those in gorverment that we are tired of their lies.

Keep it up my brother to point out some issues like you did to this one may be one day,these people in power they 'll come across it and help us accordingry.

* wish u all the best bro.
Khupete on 05 September, 2008 10:52:08
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Omwa inki ndi omwa ink ndithu. Zeleza this is a master piece. Masiku ano kwachuluka ma journalist osaphunzira sangalembe chonchi olo. Kwawo koma Pulezident/DR/wadziko/pulezidentiyu/Nduna/Makiyolobasi/Gavanala...Kulemba koma uku, Zeleza aphunzitseni ku MBC a Malopa a Chipofya ndi a Kazembe kuti kulemba sizandale zokha ayi. Iwo angokhalira kulemba za chipani ndikutukwana opposition. Asanduka mouth piece ya PPPdd..Zamanyazi
kb on 05 September, 2008 12:30:53
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* have longed for your article ada. mature, informative, educative... so others say. Enjoyable to read. *'m not a Tonga but jealous down you've brought out real issues here. Uncalled for political interference, lack of political will, inefficiency etc. * expect more of such articles from pipo like you.
chingwe chambuzi on 05 September, 2008 04:21:03
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Thanks for abrogating scurrility.

Keep it up!

Chingwe
Rabbyce K Nkhoma on 07 September, 2008 01:07:46
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* thought the north was cursed to have no developments from the government pundits, but we shall rise, let us educate our sons and our women to be, * smell malawi still at plunder when ilook at the equation our leaders criteriarise our share, at the same time the northern leaders still dance to the tune of silence or satisfaction cry a bit, but if Kaliati gives them a breast they suck it and loose their minds they go hide in the shells like an old tortoise found eating home grown mashrooms, embracing the corupt govt, blind fording themselves and still want to resurrect the the muluzi regime and we think we are genuine, we must form a federal govt, this democracy at hand never works so every region can have its own power to woo its aid under one mother malawi, unless we agree that we are divided in mind like sons of one mom under one loof, the problems of development will never cease
Rabbyce of chindi Euthini Mzimba central in switzerland
kunta.kinte mwazakeyo on 08 September, 2008 01:35:13
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WHAT AN ARTICLE. this is a masterpiece brother. truly alot leave to be desired in my mother district, but who is to blame? if the government is doing nothing then what should be the next step? from history nkhata bay has been negleted despite producing part of the cream in the malawian industries. the dwangwa nkhatabay turn off road road took ages before it was constructed yet that was the same road used by road transoprters to ferry sugar to far north and tanzania etc.
the main problem with us THE TONGAS is hiding our identy and we lack patriotism for our district. mr zeleza manda, by now you should be swimming in monies, have you thought of building some structures at chinthenche or you decided to start constructing in blantyre or lilongwe. schools like mgodi, bungano, chihami, bandawe, kande are such a disgrace today. yet we have alumni in the likes of zeleza manda and friends they have done nothing to it. not even donating black boards or chalk. if you are to talk about khumbo chirwa the MP, he is a bunch of dunderhead aiming at enrichening his pocket, bet if he is to make it this time around. nkhatabay is one of the beautiful tourist attraction places because it has beautiful beaches but we fail to utilize them. once a person wants to construct a lodge along the lakeshore you will here alot of stories including matchona aku zimbambwe omwe anapita 1914. "atuza ambuya azamumangapu po ndakana ndamweni" end of quote. what do expect. should those development concious people build resorts in the air? forget about the govt, no govt will ever like atonga for obvious reasons, njala nthenda nsanje. apart from that we are solely to blame because we blow ourselves out of propotion. mind you * am typical mtonga and * know what is on the ground. development no development atonga are easy going people and GOD loves them. rains fall throughtout the year we have DENDI{relish} which is fish our stapple food is cassava flour. cassava withstand harsh conditions. for those crying out that their is hunger in nkhatabay they are lazy. my mum is now 75 years and she has three acres of cassava she doesnt complain of hunger. there was one time in the 80'* when our cassava was attacked by mildew { KODI-KODI} that was the time * can truly confess that nkhata bay was hit. todate we only suffer from minor floods once in a blue moon. all in all * beg you tongas in diapsora to come forward and develop your district. do not expect politicians to do it for you. all they want are your votes. * thank the likes of mkanda'*, banda,* who have come up with good structures near katoto beach. thats wonderful guys keep it up. YEWU NDAMALA INE MTONGA WAPA JIWA MWENECHU CHIGUMBULI.
Kwangu wa Manduwa on 08 September, 2008 07:23:39
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Ada Manda, does that mean there are no Tongas in Nkhotakota? * am one of the KK Tongas (from Dwambazi), * don'* mind these boundaries. Ada Banda a Chimunthu is also one of us. Atilonda Lake of Stars, tiyambisenge vinyake (MCP, Nation NewsPaper, vinandi waka). It'* a slippery path to tread, borders on tribalism.
Rabbyce K Nkhoma on 08 September, 2008 07:38:07
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He Kunta kinte * agree with you that the govt will not develope me solerly * think may be you dont understand the duties of a chosen democratic Boma, to its mtundu, could Aleke constract the lake shore road up to chitipa?' could khombo kachale Buy the medics for the dying Fuko? a good boma creates the goood infractures for the people to mobiles thier dreams, good roads so people could accesses their sweat to markets, create educational standards at a given time, invest in the university for good acadamics, invest in industries for those who got thier skills and evaluate the youth, them as the future nation these are not the duties of chief, village headman, neither the Goodall gondwe him as merey person but for a govt that * balloted for, we are indipendent from Britain but to be dependent on our govt thats why * go to vote, and no one! * repeat no one could tell me that * have to build the bridge to mbalachanda by myself not when * know that donners are giving it all for the development of our coutry, not when * know that my father was cheated and cut double tax for his 30 kg of burry at Mzuzu Auction, Please kinte a true Malawian will never give up and not after all those years of mluzi, we have to learn to confront our government not praise them when we face the waterfalls,they study our weakinesses and they know what carrots to give us as donkeys, no Tonga no tumbuka no chewa neither yao sees a hundred year dream in mluzi or Bingu for our mother Malawi, so why not unite as malawians and disappoint them once and for all as it is happening on this Asian country now? Rabbyce K NKhoma
in CH
Khamani!!! on 08 September, 2008 09:48:21
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This piece is amazing. Does this author have a book out? If not, he should seriously consider it. The article is expertly simplistic, crisp and yet manages to deliver a serious message with a punch!

Bravo!
kawalaziestate on 10 September, 2008 02:56:27
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abwana mulemba nadi yimwi.mutindikumbusa
pa banga ku vizara,wuli pa gava?
kunta.kinte mwazakeyo on 10 September, 2008 05:47:38
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got a question to mr zeleza "did you say you took your primary school nephew to a lodge and stayed there until late?" by the way this was school time what message were you sending to your nephew? drinking and driving do not go together, you even forgot how you drove your own car back home taking advantage that DWI is treated with kid gloves in malawi. how on earth do we forget to relay the good moral value that we learn abroad for the development of our country? rabbyca if the government is failing to develop us should you guys wait until * or zeleza come into power in the 40 years. paja ma president akumalawi amakhala okalambilapo. much as you have your opinion on khumbo chirwa, but it seems you have never seen him the way he speaks in parliament. ma speech olembeledwa awa vuto lake sumalankhula ndi confidence. he better as muluzi how he used to do it after lessons from chikumbutso mtuumodzi. tough luck atonga, koma easy kuwala kuzawoneka. by the way atcheya bridge lija la nkhata bay likoma lilipati chifukwa ndatenga nthawi ndisanafikeko uko kumudzi.
Grey Mfuni on 11 September, 2008 02:58:33
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* was at "Mzuzu Government Secondary School" when * had Alexander Solzhenitsyn'* Matryona'* House and Other Stories book on my English Literature course. The school, then, was quite professional, green with a nice fish pond and very inviting for education.

* was disappointed when * visited it a few years ago. Instead of seeing improvement to even more modern of a school, it actually looked "Mzuzu Getto Secondary School". That was not nice for me and for all of us out there!!

Same happened when * visited my first primary school.

Is that what we call DEVELOPMENT? Not really!!

Development is "Good, better, best"...not "Best, better, worse"

No country on Earth developed economically without improving education on all fronts of it'* borders(Demographics). Knowledge is power!!
ndalyapuwaka on 18 September, 2008 04:58:26
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Zeleza is a genius, one of the few real writers and journalists Malawi can boast of. This is what we call real writing, but before * forget my ethics * should point out one or two things here, Kunta.Kinte Wazakeyo has a point, if the gaffment is not doing anything for us it has never done anything for us will do nothing for us then why wait for it to do anything for us, we are miserable if we dont think like kunta kinte wazakeyo, but * have to ask kunta mwepani ayimwi, pamwenga mutokozo kachiswaswa mwanyinu po mwinu mwe chinu chipika. We have to be exemplary and with one step at a time we will become a most coveted district like what they are taking away from us(* mean nyanja ya nyenyezi) Lake of stars festival. Whatever the people out there think about our district they have to think twice because there is nothing like Nkhatabay anywhere in the world. Let us think of ourselves and find ways of removing ourselves from the mess we are in. The gaffment can come later after our own investment, * believe with unity nothing can stand in our way lets be friends to our district and let us start today by visiting ambuya dont just speak and lalamuka here. Whether you like it or not it is your home ada anguti EAST OR WEST HOME IS BEST. you complete the rest. Ada Manda keep it up and continue reminding us that we have a home and kumwa mpaka kumatanda kucha ni nkhani cha yo panyaki the nephew is beyond the age. Kabila kabuka ada.
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